Written by: Sophia Kavathas
Translated by: Denise Morfiris

[This Month's Recipe] [World of Chefs] [Gefsi/Kouzina Home Page]

Syros, the island known for its developed social and urban culture, is well known historically. Along with its cultural development, came its gastronomical development. 3:30 at night.

Three o clock. Night, with the wind whistling around the ship as it moves across the seemingly boundless Cycladic open sea. The ship makes a wide turn and the dark mass that comes toward us becomes a large, bright embrace. As we get closer we see buildings, roads and the pier.

3:30 at night in Syros harbor. For the first time in our not so short lives, my husband and I set foot on the firm ground of the island. With our suitcases in hand, we were met by George Stathopoulos who was our host on the island. He was alone.

Our trip was an added one and we found ourselves on Syros rather than Tinos which was our original destination, because on Tinos they weren't able to give us accommodations. So, for the first time, and what ended up being a wonderful time, we visited Syros. We were welcomed by a strong north easterly wind that whistled, whirled and filled the narrow passages of the island like a ruling master, which it is. We arrived at the APPOLONA hostelry (on Apollonos Street) as George Stathopoulos has named it. It is part of the KRIARA residence which is a wonderful historic building in VENETIA in Ermoupolis and has adorned the city since 1834.

We entered our room with our eyes and minds full of the sights we had seen on our quick trip from the harbor to the hostelry. It was a trip filled with beautiful buildings, houses and squares, all esthetically combined with nothing lacking and nothing superfluous. A kind of harmony we can only dream of in our country because only in our dreams do we find fulfillment.

Syros had won our hearts and we still had not really seen anything. And we still had not met any of the people of Syros.

So, the next morning after breakfast we began getting acquainted with the island and the islanders. The people were pleasant, polite and hospitable and did not have a local prejudice toward outsiders and that makes one feel comfortable and at ease. They do not pursue or push tourism and so you feel that you are not on a trip but that you are their guest. Much as it was in the 1700's when there was much pressure on the islands and the surrounding areas by the Turks who forced people from Xios, Sifnos, Andros, and the more distant people of Crete, to ask for asylum on Syros, where the Turks had never set foot. This was because the island was under the protection of the French.

The older residents of Syro, the majority of whom were then Catholic, lived up in the high part of town overlooking the harbor (which did not exist then), that today is called "UPPER SYRA". The newer residents who came to Syro built their homes in the lower areas close to the sea. With good humor, capital and the idea of a better life, they built the harbor and the shipyard. There they built ships that sailed everywhere and thus trade boomed and Syros became the center for merchant marine trade. When the Corinth Canal was opened, and the Piraeus harbor was built, roles changed and Syros lost its place as the center of trade. However, during the years that Syros was the trade center, it thrived. Wonderful architectural examples were built by well known architects, even Chiler, who designed the City Hall. Today the City Planners Office has documented archives of rare architectural and city planning drawings. The sea unites and united countries. It advanced civilization and made art and trade skills known. Thus, the "Small Stairs Of Milan" were built in Ermoupoli. And the magnificent Court House in Miaouli Square. And the Kriari home where kings and Queens stayed when visiting, as did Eleftheros Venezelos when he was going to school on Syros. The educational system was given much attention and Syros was known for its prototype schools at that time.

The people worked, created, enjoyed themselves, and they also endowed the next generations with masterpieces. Poets and writer/teachers wrote and printers turned their works into books. They were then made available to the public who thirsted for knowledge and reading as recreation. The shipyard was in operation and the first steam run ships were made there. The people of Syros came and went to foreign lands and learned new ideas about life, people and the "something better" and brought them back with them to the island. Club Houses were built for meetings and for enjoying good food. The first book was printed in Greek and the first cookbook was translated from Italian on Syros.

Here on Syros, the concept of the Club House, is one of a social meeting place. The food, the table settings and the service had European beginnings for the "eome sideve", the "as it must be" for the people of Syros. During the summer months they move to the summer centers of Galissa, Finikas, Parakopi and Dela Gratsia. Galissas and Finikas have been destroyed because of the idea that every square inch must "be used". Even so, the FINIKA still exists in a far corner on the right side of the beach, a store, and the tavern of the FORADI brothers are an oasis in the rest of the tourist confusion. And when you go to Syro, make sure you reserve a table at Finika well in advance. You will find that your punctuality and politeness will be reciprocated by the ladies of the restaurant with excellent service, delicious authentic food, and wonderful authentic island surroundings.

Dela Gratsia is still unique and proud. From Dela Gratsia to Finika, to Poseidona, and Agkathopes with the early evenings red sun. There are beautiful beaches, with the exception of FINIKA which we have said has come down with a case of "aesthetic pollution". At Poseidona, on the beach at DELA GRATSIA, we stayed at the FETOURI. This is a hotel with traditional hospitality with none of the anonymity found at a modern hotel. It is blooming with beautiful flowers, has excellent service, and the wonderful sea is 4 meters in front of you. It has the esthetics of the Riviera in the late 1960's.

In late afternoon, with the sun going down, disappearing before your eyes, the only thing that is missing but which you think you hear and see, is the music of ROTTA and of FELINI enjoying his coffee and the delicious island delicacies.

Syros is one of the few islands that doesn't need pizza and souvlaki. There is good food to be found everywhere, served in nice surroundings at good prices. At the ERMIS Hotel, down by the harbor, we ate well, had wine and dessert, the service was very good, there were tablecloths on the tables, etc, and we paid around 2500 drachmas per person. In Ano Syra (Upper), the mezedapolia (shops where an assortment of appetizers are served), the shops are very pretty, with beautiful views and filled with historic heirlooms. Should it be warm at night it is best to avoid the Upper town even though its perfect for "ouzaki" (Ouzo), appetizers, the view of the Aegean Sea and the songs of Marco Vamvakari. Wait until the weather cools off. On the other hand, a very beautiful and cool place with interesting local foods is the MITAKA tavern with its menu of seafood, pitas, local cheeses and with very good cuisine. However, reserve a table at the club at Dela Gratsia with its sweet smelling garden. Here Mrs. Maria serves the specialties she fixes and serves with imagination and competence. Some of the dishes that she fixed for us are found in our magazine and we thank her for being so accommodating.