Written by: Orestis Davias
Translated by: Denise Morfiris

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Among the precious stones and different treasures that the Conquistadors of the Andes brought back with them, there was, fortunately, the tomato. The people of the Mediterranean, who thought the tomato was an exotic fruit, quickly found it a necessary and basic dietary need. They found it an even more important product than the newly arrived cocoa, vanilla and potato which the Spanish Conquistadors brought from faraway places. The tomato was originally no bigger than a cherry and all of its’ different varieties weren't yet known. In the first years that the tomato became popular with people of the Mediterranean, the red, yellow and white tomatoes were used as expensive decorations for homes and were kept in elegant vases. Many years later, came the name "tomati", it's native name, and it began to be cultivated in Europe and especially in Naples, Italy. Taken by the golden yellow color of the vegetable, the Neapolitans called the tomato "pomodoro" from the phrase "pomme d'or" which means golden potato. This name is still used even though today's tomato is red. Slowly, the tomato was grown all over the Mediterranean. The French gave it aphrodisiac qualities and called it "pomme d'amour" (food of love). Paris was the last of the French cities to try the charms of the tomato. The Anglo-Saxons at the end of the 19th century continued to warn people in there literature about the "toxic" qualities of the tomato and said that the tomato must be cooked for a long time before eaten.

A Vegetable for All Seasons

For years now the tomato has been very "famous" and its lovers enjoy it in many different ways. In the Mediterranean markets the tomato is now found year round. As would be expected, the growing of tomatoes in hothouses, mainly found in Northern Europe, means a loss in taste and aroma. Lastly, the "tomate en grappe" which is grown in Sicily is causing quite a stir. This is not a new variety of tomato, but has to do with the process used to cultivate the tomato. 

How We can Grow Tomatoes at Home

It is very easy to grow tomatoes in our gardens or, if we want, on our balconies! The tomato seed should be planted from April on. Before planting the seeds they should be left to soak over night in water to soften. It is even easier to buy tomato plants and plant them in large flowerpots. The Cerise's, small yellow and orange tomato plants, are recommended. No matter what variety is bought, the first tomatoes to sprout will be a cause of much enthusiasm. If someone is interested in a rarer type of tomato, the varieties can be found in the English catalogue "Thompson and Morgan" who sell green tomatoes, tomate en grappe and giant tomatoes that weigh between 500gr and 1 kilo each! In the "Vilmorin" catalogue one will find the beefsteak tomato which is ideal for stuffing.

An Exotic Fruit

The tomato was sold widely in commercial markets after the 1920s. In 1950 the tomato was listed as a summer vegetable only in the southern Mediterranean countries. Until then, the most widely known variety of tomato was the marmande. After the 1950s, extensive cultivation of different varieties of fruits and vegetables began and the hybrid F1 was used because of its hardiness and because of its'potential to be grown in hothouses all year round. From 1960 and on, 61 varieties of tomatoes where listed in official catalogues. Today there are over 240 varieties of tomatoes grown in France and 1200 varieties grown throughout Europe. The tomato is now a well-known vegetable. We should note that the average Greek person uses 72 kilos of tomatoes a year, whereas the Italians use 38 kilos and the French 18 kilos.

Which Ones Should We Choose

There are virtually hundreds of varieties of tomatoes on the market. Unfortunately, not all of them have the wonderful taste and aroma that we want. What we should not forget is that even though we now have modern means of cultivating the tomato, the tomato is still a seasonal vegetable. We cannot expect to find tomatoes with authentic taste and aroma before the end of May. Therefore, getting acquainted with the most well known varieties of tomatoes is a must: 

• Marmande: This is the most well known tomato grown. It is round and full, with a unique aroma. Unfortunately it is beginning to disappear and other varieties are taking its' place. It is ideal for use in cooked foods and for sauces. 

• Tomate en grappes: This variety comes from Sicily. It is used in cooking and for cold dishes. 

• Olivette: This variety is also called Roma. It is grown mainly in central Europe and is ideal for salads. 

• Cerise(or cherry): Much bigger than a cherry, with a yellow-red color. Its' plant grows very large branches.

The Vegetable of the Sun

The summer is the best season to find large tomatoes. To make dried tomatoes we first cut them in half and put them in coarse salt. We then put them in aluminum foil, place then in an oven pan and cooked them on a very low heat for 4 hours. After cooking, the tomatoes are dried but are still soft. We allow them to cool and then submerge them in olive oil.

Try ttomato recipes below and let yourself go back the ancient culture of the Greeks. And if some people think there is too much emphasis on the "what" of classical antiquity and consider it a small and unimportant thing, let us get our answer from the philosopher of life Epicurus: "Origin and roots, all kinds of riches and the pot a delight".

Bibliography

Tomate by Bernard Degioanni (Hatier). This small book of 96 pages gives an excellent overview of the Grains de Saveurs series. It contains everything we should know about the tomato including recipes.

La Cuisine provencale du Mas Tourteron by Elizabeth Bourgeois (La Chene). This is a manual for people who know eclectic cuisine. It explores the charms of provincial French cooking.

Cuisine de Mediterranne by Rena Salaman (Flammarion): A book with exquisite pictures of Mediterranean cuisine from which you can get some ideas and recipes using tomatoes as a base.