The
Mediterranean Region:
The Flavors of the Olive Tree WorldIf someone were to ask you
What color is the moon?,you might find
yourself hesitating before giving a thoughtful reply. The
reason for the hesitation is that the answer is not
always the same and the conditions under which the
moons color is reflected will vary according to
certain factors. These variables include the altitude of
the moon over the horizon, the soil and atmospheric
conditions, the absence or presence of rain, the outside
temperature and the absence or presence of the sun. A
surprisingly similar answer can be given to an entirely
different question: What does olive oil taste like?"
The effects that the soil conditions, climate and
altitude of the olive tree grove have upon the flavor of
olive oil, in addition to such other factors as the
degree to which olives are ripe or unripe when harvested,
the absence or presence of artificial
chemicals, and the
variety of olive cultivar, are discussed in greater
detail in our website. Here, it seems noteworthy to
briefly illuminate some of the distinctive features of
the olive tree world in ten different countries in order
to demonstrate how the range of olive oil flavors
complement the corresponding natural food biodiversity of
the regions. The remarkable range of flavors produced
from olives in different parts of the world serves to
focus well-deserved attention upon the importance of
selecting your olive oil with care in order to complement
your dish and highlight its special qualities that
inspired you to create it in the first place.
I have featured some of the olive cultivars and
corresponding olive oil flavors from a few regions of the
olive tree world. I welcome the contribution of
individuals from olive growing regions that are not
covered in this journal, such as Argentina, Chile,
Mexico, Syria, Australia, Cyprus, Morocco, China, South
Africa, Jordan and Egypt as well as others, in order to
enhance our knowledge and appreciation of their part of
the world and heighten our awareness of their important
contribution to the international olive oil industry.
Greece
The olive varieties
used in the production of approximately 350,000 tons of
olive oil per year in Greece are: Kalamata, Kolovi,
Karydolia, Tsounati, Psiloelia, Prassinolia, Koroneiki,
Manaki, Adramytiani and Doppia. The significant olive
growing regions are: the Peloponnese, which produces an
olive oil with an aroma reminiscent of mown hay and green
olives and a vegetal flavor with herbal overtones;
Chalcedon, which produces an olive oil possessed of an
herbal bouquet and a dense texture that has a deep,
peppery and fruity flavor; Crete that produces a refined
and smooth tasting olive oil with an aroma suggestive of
fresh herbs and a flavor of delicate fruits with a
light texture; and Lygourio that is lesser known but
produces an olive oil that has a very low acidity and a
flavor suggestive of fruits and herbs.
Most Greek dishes incorporate olive oil, especially
salads, goat and sheep cheese dishes, grilled meats,
seafood, grilled and stuffed peppers, tomato salads,
cooked vegetables, pastichio, and the variety of phyllo
pastry pies including meat, cheese and spinach.
Portugal
Portugal is
known for its Cobrancosa, Verdeal Trasmontana, Madural,
Cordovil and Galega varieties of olive cultivar, the
latter of which produces approximately three quarters of
the countrys annual olive oil production of 50,000
tons. There are five regions that are considered to be
the primary olive growing areas of the country.
Tras-os-Montes in the northeast produces different
flavored olive oils with common features being a very low
natural acidity, delicate texture and flavor reminiscent
of fresh fruit and herbs but with different aromas
ranging from almonds and sugar to spices. Moura produces
olive oil that has a yellow color converging on
highlights of green, a flavor suggesting fresh fruit and
a light, herbal aroma. Norte Alentejano produces a very
golden olive oil with a deep, smooth texture, and a
flavor suggestive of fresh fruit. Beira produces an olive
oil with a light yellow color tinged with green
highlights that also has a smooth texture and a fruity
flavor. Ribatejo produces olive oil with a smooth, dense
texture, golden color and fruity flavor.
Spain
Spain is the
worlds leading producer of olive oil with
approximately 975,000 tons produced per year in ten
regions of the country. Andalusia contributes
approximately seventy five percent of the countrys
annual olive oil production primarily from the
Hojiblanca, Lechin de Sevilla, Picual, Picudo, Ocal and
Verdial olive cultivars which create a wide range of
flavors and colors of olive oil; however, one very
popular olive oil from the Sierra Subbetica region
possesses a unique sweet citrus flavor that makes this
oil very compatible with dessert dishes that incorporate
Spains domestically produced citrus fruits. Aragon
has the Empeltre variety of olive cultivar that has a
golden color, an aroma of ripe red apples and a slightly
sweet flavor suggestive of fresh fruits. Baena, known for
its traditional cuisine that features sweet, sour and
spicy dishes using lemon and orange based sauces and
marinades, has primarily the Hojiblanca, Picual and
Picudo varieties of olive cultivar that create an olive
oil with a spicy, fruity and slightly bitter flavor, an
aroma of fresh herbs and flowers and a smooth, delicate
texture. Castille and Mancha have the Cornicabra variety
of olive cultivar that creates a strong, aromatic olive
oil with a distinct bitterness and a suggestion of pepper
in its bite. Catalonia with its Arbequina, Empeltre and
Fraga varieties of olive cultivar produces a very lively
and sweet olive oil reminiscent of fresh fruit and
almonds with a slight aftertaste of milk and toasted
bread.
Estremadura has the Carasquena, Cornicabra and Morsica
varieties of olive tree that produces a very strong olive
oil with a peppery bite, that complements meats and
cheeses with very bold, distinctive flavors. Priego de
Cordoba produces a smoothly yet densely textured golden
yellow olive oil with tinges of green possessing a fruity
and slightly bitter flavor with the Hojiblanca, Picual
and Picudo varieties of olive cultivar. Sierra de Segura
has the Hojiblanca and Picual varieties of olive cultivar
that produce an aromatic and spicy olive oil in this
particular region. Sierra Magina has the Hojiblanca,
Lechin, Ocal, Picual, Picudo and Verdial olive cultivar
varieties that produce a strong, distinctly flavored
olive oil with a smooth texture and fruity flavor. The
Siurana region has the Arbequina variety of olive
cultivar that produces a very light yellow colored oil
with a delicate, sweet flavor.
Italy
Italy produces
approximately 425,000 tons of olive oil per year in the
following nine regions of the country. Calabria makes a
distinctive fruity and at the same time vegetal flavored
olive oil possessing a slight bitterness primarily from
the Carolea and Nocellara varieties of olive cultivar.
Campagna produces a dense, fruity and golden color olive
oil from the Frantoio, Carolea, Coratina, Leccino and
Ogliarota varieties of olive cultivar. In Latium, the
Frantoio variety produces olive oil possessing an intense
mineral flavor that complements its regional dishes such
as lobster, spider crab, turbot and, of course, pasta,
tomatoes and Brousse cheese. Liguria produces an olive
oil with a sweet flavor, delicate texture primarily from
the Opalino and Taggiasca olive cultivars.
Puglia produces almost one half of the countrys
olive oil from the Coratina, Provenzale and Ogliarola
varieties which create a flavor suggestive of white
fleshed fruits and sweet almonds with a light and
delicate texture. Sardinias cuisine, consisting of
seafood, salads, pasta and wonderful cheeses, is
complemented by a complex fruit and vegetal flavored,
green color olive oil with a hint of bitterness and an
artichoke and dandelion aroma produced in the region
using primarily Bianca, Bosana and Tonda olive cultivars.
Sicily, known for its seafood and fresh green vegetables,
has the Biancolilla, Cerasuola, Moresca, Nocellara and
Tonda Iblea olive varieties that produce olive oil
possessing a sweet almond flavor by the coast and a
fruity flavor inland and on the higher elevations. In
Tuscany you will find generous portions of raw and cooked
vegetables, fish, pork tenderloins and pasta prepared
with their locally produced olive oil made from the
Frantoio, Leccino, Moraiolo, Olivastra, and Pendolino
varieties of olive trees that produce a range of colors
and flavors, such as the olive oil from Chianti with a
golden green color and a spicy and peppery flavor with a
suggestion of artichokes; a light golden yellow oil from
Lucca; and a very rustic olive oil with a deep texture
and intense flavor from Montalcino. Umbria is blanketed
with the Agogia, Frantoio, Leccino, Moraiolo and Raggiola
olive cultivars which produce a an olive oil possessing a
slightly fruity flavor with a peppery kick, an aroma
reminiscent of artichokes and a very smooth, fluid
texture.
France
France
produces approximately 2,500 tons of olive oil per year
in nine regions of the country. Aix-en-Provence has the
Aglandau variety of olive cultivar that produces a unique
olive oil with a slight bitterness and an aroma of
almonds and hazelnuts that complements the regional
French Mediterranean cuisine. Ardeche has the Rougette
variety that produces a very distinctive olive oil with a
woodland aroma and slightly herbal flavor with a
suggestion of fruits. Aude and Gard produce a very well
balanced, fruity olive oil characterized by a smooth
texture primarily from the Lucques and Picholene
varieties of olive cultivar. Corsica has primarily the
Picholine and Sabina varieties of olive cultivar that
produce a green colored olive oil with an herbal bouquet
slightly suggestive of green vegetables and a peppery,
fiery bite to its flavor. The Corsicans are known to vary
their harvest times according to the desired flavor that
they wish to produce by harvesting in the winter for a
more bitter
flavor from less than ripe olives and harvesting in the
spring for a sweeter flavor oil from ripe olives.
Corsicans create an olive oil that complements their
cuisine influenced by North Africa and Southern Europe in
their featured specialties such as couscous, tajines,
carpaccio, gazpacho and spicy seafood dishes.
Haute Provence uses principally the Aglandau as well
as the Bouteillan and Picholine olive cultivar varieties
to create a smooth, densely textured olive oil with a
fruity flavor to complement their regional cuisine that
includes lamb, seafood, pumpkin, courgettes, peppers,
cheeses, and white meats. The traditional cuisine of Les
Baux includes white meats, lobster, bass, vegetables,
cheeses and pasta dishes that incorporate the locally
produced olive oil made from the Aglandau, Grossane,
Picholine, and Saloneque olive cultivars to produce an
oil with a fragrance of white flowers and fruit blossoms
and there is a slight suggestion of bitter almonds
associated with this oil. The region of Massif de
lEsterel and Nice grows the Cailletier olive
cultivar that produces a very refined, light, yellow
colored olive oil with a delicate and slightly sweet
flavor and a bouquet reminiscent of almonds, acacia and
hawthorn. The region of Massif des Maures and Haut Var
have a number of olive cultivars, some dating back to
very old times indeed, but the principal ones include
Aglandau, Bouteillan, Grossane, Picholene and Ribiers
which are grown in order to produce a sweet and slightly
spicy olive oil with an aroma of white fleshed fruits and
a smooth texture that complements the seafood, lamb,
bouillabaisse, salads and dishes incorporating pine nuts.
The Tanche variety of olive cultivar is grown in Nyons
that produces a sweet and at the same time slightly milky
flavored olive oil with a nutty aroma suggestive of
hazelnuts and almonds that complements the regional
cuisine consisting of seafood, salads and fruit tarts.
Israel
The Jezreel
Valley in Galilee, Israel, produces olive oil primarily
from the Barnea, Manzanillo, Nabali and Souri olive
cultivars for a maximum annual yield of approximately
5,000 tons. The Barnea cultivar produces a sweet, lightly
fruity olive oil with a suggestion of vegetal flavor and
an aroma reminiscent of newly mown hay The Manzanillo and
Nabali varieties produce a smooth and lightly textured
olive oil that may be characterized as more neutral in
flavor compared to the strong and distinctly flavored
olive oils from other regions of the world. The Souri
variety produces an olive oil with a distinctive honey
and peppery flavor and an herbal aroma. The olive oil
produced by this latter variety especially complements
the veal, artichokes and zucchini dishes of the region.
Croatia
Croatia has the Buga
and Leccino varieties of olive cultivar to produce
approximately 500 tons of olive oil per year. Their olive
oil is characterized by a refined texture with a fruity
flavor and a fragrance suggestive of artichokes, cocoa
and hay. The dishes of the region using white meats,
artichokes and raw tuna are enhanced by the distinctive
olive oil produced in the region.
Tunisia
The Chemlali de Sfax,
Chetoui, Gerboui, Meski and Oueslati olive cultivars are
grown in Tunisia that has a variable production rate of
between 75,000 and 275,000 tons of olive oil that
corresponds with its variation in annual rainfall. The
countrys most reknown olive oil is produced from
the groves in the region of Carthage. The olive oil is
greenish in color with a wonderful aroma and a flavor
reminiscent of fresh fruit with a tinge of bitterness.
Turkey
The olive cultivars
Ayvalik, Domat, Ekiste, Elebi, Erkence, Gemlik, Izmir
Sofralik, Memecik, Memeli, Trilya and Uslu are grown for
the production of approximately 150,000 to 200,000 tons
of olive oil per year. It is interesting to note that
Turkey harvests olives from the Domat, Izmir and Trilya
cultivars for the comparable production of both olive oil
and table olives. The olive oil from the well known area
of Adatepe, the site of the mythological Mount Ida, is a
refined, smoothly textured oil with a light golden green
color, an herbal bouquet and a delicate flavor
reminiscent of fresh fruit.
United States
The U.S. derives its
olive oil primarily from the Manzanillo, Sevillano,
Mission, Ascolano and Barouni olive cultivars
predominantly located in California and Texas. The total
annual production is approximately 1,000 tons of olive
oil that is generally characterized as sweet and fruity.
The U.S. consumes more than 150,000 tons of olive oil
annually and is becoming increasingly aware of the
different characteristics of olive oil that is imported
from around the world.
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